June
Our progress through southern Belgium meant a long run through on the Sambre, old industrial areas towards Charleroi. En route we encountered John Wilson, our old friend who took us on our first barge cruise on the "Johanna" in 2005; good to see him again. A couple of long days brought us eventually to Namur, a favourite city where we planned a couple of weeks stay. Again we enjoyed walks up to the citadelle and a brilliant tour of the underground fortifications. Namur has great shopping, interesting markets, good food and across the river, Jambes had a great carnival. Still cool in the evenings we were able to barbeque outside and eat in the wheelhouse by candlelight.
We enjoyed the company of Nils and Torild again and shared their great Scandinavian cuisine. The boys visited a nearby Belgian Royal Engineers museum with vehicles and bomb disposal equipment from WW1 and 2. The guides are ex-army officers, very knowledgeable.
Namur citadelle from the Meuse
The Meuse from the citadelle
Carnival time in Jambes
From Namur we cruised down to Dinant, again retracing our route from past years and enjoying the memories. The Meuse valley is something else, massive outcrops of blue rock towering above us and the big river snaking below. A favourite sport here is rockclimbing. Scary to watch the little figures clinging on at great heights. The Belgian/French border is at Givet. The language and landscape don't change but it's nice to meet the VNF team at the first lock. We met dear friends Mike and Sally who hosted a super evening on their ship "Chouette".
Rocky landscape near Dinant
First challenge in France was setting up internet and phone, eventually achieved, mostly thanks to Chris and Carol. Each year the deals change and now we were able to purchase SIM cards from a machine in a local tabac, at a good price too.
Second challenge was the infamous Ham tunnel. The canal water level is helpfully reduced to allow us headroom. In the middle are some rough hewn rocks sticking out ready to catch our wheelhouse roof. We take it very slowly and hold our breath. Luckily it's short. Several more tunnels to negotiate during the summer but this is the one that makes us nervous.
Ham tunnel
Fumay is a familiar and favourite small town, nestled in a loop of the river. There's a great wine store here so time to stock up. Enjoyed dog walking with friends Carol and Rocky on La Tulipe who are cruising with us. Joint meals some evenings, good company and shared help with practical stuff. Still the lovely scenery of the big river twisting through rocky valleys, then up to Charleville Mezieres, a magnificent town with good moorings. We spent a week here and got on with some maintenance jobs as well as enjoying the town, great architecture and good eating out. The Alsace wines are different too, a little sweeter than other French regions, Pinot Gris and Muscat. The weather becoming really hot now, plenty of sunshine and our solar panel system working well, meeting all our energy needs. Water tank refills every three weeks is our only requirement from the outside world.
Met again with Sally and Andy on their beautiful English narrowboat "The Puzzler" and their sweet little dog Shannon. In Charleville we saw a brilliant French U2 tribute band at the champagne bar near the port.
Our route so far this season has been on familiar waterways but the Canal des Ardennes was new. Very rural, pretty and heavily locked.........27 locks in one eight hour hit - quite a run! The next morning Diana slipped on the dewy deck in new shoes, a sprained wrist but good first aid helped; ice, splinted, black and blue, working one handed for a week or so. Luckily we'd done most of the locks for a while and took a few days' break.
Canal des Ardennes
Waterfall locks
We paused at little town of Rethel, almost destroyed in both world wars, it picked itself up and got on with life. Great butcher here so freezer full of nice meat. Here we met "Cinclus"; Sasja and Ekko are a delightful Dutch couple with many years of barge know how, lots of barge talk and comparing notes, beautiful ship.
Sunset at Rethel
Canal Lateral a l'Aisne
Towards the end of June it became busier with other boats, mostly smaller than us so early morning starts became the best way of avoiding the midday heat and securing a night time spot. The weather becoming very hot now, 30 degrees and weeks since the last rain.
Our next port was the magnificent city of Reims, right in the heart of champagne country. Familiar again but great to return. Here a longer stay too, lots to see and do and the highlight was to rendezvous with Christine and Edd accompanied by Penny and Roger. They are all Jaguar enthusiasts who were at the end of a driving holiday (in XJ6 and E-type) through three countries. They took us to the old Reims Racing Circuit where legendary drivers achieved much, particularly the Jaguar teams in the 12 hour races between 1920s to 1960s. The circuit is now closed but is partly public roads with the stands and buildings still there. Friends of the old circuit keep the memory alive and a replica indoor track was running a 12 hour Scalextric race, exciting stuff; the enthusiasm was infectious. It's a bit like the barge world really, just different with cars! A run down that home straight in Roger's E-Type was the biggest thrill and we rounded off the day with a barbeque on board Esme right in the centre of Reims city. A day to remember.
The old Circuit de Gueux, Reims
Christine, Ed, Penny and Roger with their beautiful Jaguars
Of course while in Reims we enjoyed a little retail therapy, drank some champagne and saw the amazing Son et Lumiere at the cathedral. Diana found a hairdresser name Maxime, who gets an award for not cutting it all off!
Reims cathedral Son et Lumiere
Waterfront at Reims
South of Reims we cruised through lovely countryside, surrounded by champagne vineyards and pretty villages. Nice to see country life again after the excitement of the city. The grain harvest getting underway, much activity across the distant fields till late. Barbecue food and late evenings out on deck under the stars. One evening we were surrounded by a swarm of June bugs which don't bite but look like flying beetles, harmless and really quite beautiful. That same night we saw the pompiers putting out a stubblefield fire.
Stubblefield fire near Sillery
So far it's been a perfect summer but we are leaving early, cruising in the cool of morning, seeking shade and being lazy during the hottest part of the day. There's talk of aircon in the sleeping cabins for next year. Chris has a plan....winter project?
We enjoyed the company of Nils and Torild again and shared their great Scandinavian cuisine. The boys visited a nearby Belgian Royal Engineers museum with vehicles and bomb disposal equipment from WW1 and 2. The guides are ex-army officers, very knowledgeable.
Namur citadelle from the Meuse
The Meuse from the citadelle
Carnival time in Jambes
From Namur we cruised down to Dinant, again retracing our route from past years and enjoying the memories. The Meuse valley is something else, massive outcrops of blue rock towering above us and the big river snaking below. A favourite sport here is rockclimbing. Scary to watch the little figures clinging on at great heights. The Belgian/French border is at Givet. The language and landscape don't change but it's nice to meet the VNF team at the first lock. We met dear friends Mike and Sally who hosted a super evening on their ship "Chouette".
Rocky landscape near Dinant
First challenge in France was setting up internet and phone, eventually achieved, mostly thanks to Chris and Carol. Each year the deals change and now we were able to purchase SIM cards from a machine in a local tabac, at a good price too.
Second challenge was the infamous Ham tunnel. The canal water level is helpfully reduced to allow us headroom. In the middle are some rough hewn rocks sticking out ready to catch our wheelhouse roof. We take it very slowly and hold our breath. Luckily it's short. Several more tunnels to negotiate during the summer but this is the one that makes us nervous.
Ham tunnel
Fumay is a familiar and favourite small town, nestled in a loop of the river. There's a great wine store here so time to stock up. Enjoyed dog walking with friends Carol and Rocky on La Tulipe who are cruising with us. Joint meals some evenings, good company and shared help with practical stuff. Still the lovely scenery of the big river twisting through rocky valleys, then up to Charleville Mezieres, a magnificent town with good moorings. We spent a week here and got on with some maintenance jobs as well as enjoying the town, great architecture and good eating out. The Alsace wines are different too, a little sweeter than other French regions, Pinot Gris and Muscat. The weather becoming really hot now, plenty of sunshine and our solar panel system working well, meeting all our energy needs. Water tank refills every three weeks is our only requirement from the outside world.
Met again with Sally and Andy on their beautiful English narrowboat "The Puzzler" and their sweet little dog Shannon. In Charleville we saw a brilliant French U2 tribute band at the champagne bar near the port.
Our route so far this season has been on familiar waterways but the Canal des Ardennes was new. Very rural, pretty and heavily locked.........27 locks in one eight hour hit - quite a run! The next morning Diana slipped on the dewy deck in new shoes, a sprained wrist but good first aid helped; ice, splinted, black and blue, working one handed for a week or so. Luckily we'd done most of the locks for a while and took a few days' break.
Canal des Ardennes
Waterfall locks
We paused at little town of Rethel, almost destroyed in both world wars, it picked itself up and got on with life. Great butcher here so freezer full of nice meat. Here we met "Cinclus"; Sasja and Ekko are a delightful Dutch couple with many years of barge know how, lots of barge talk and comparing notes, beautiful ship.
Sunset at Rethel
Canal Lateral a l'Aisne
Towards the end of June it became busier with other boats, mostly smaller than us so early morning starts became the best way of avoiding the midday heat and securing a night time spot. The weather becoming very hot now, 30 degrees and weeks since the last rain.
Our next port was the magnificent city of Reims, right in the heart of champagne country. Familiar again but great to return. Here a longer stay too, lots to see and do and the highlight was to rendezvous with Christine and Edd accompanied by Penny and Roger. They are all Jaguar enthusiasts who were at the end of a driving holiday (in XJ6 and E-type) through three countries. They took us to the old Reims Racing Circuit where legendary drivers achieved much, particularly the Jaguar teams in the 12 hour races between 1920s to 1960s. The circuit is now closed but is partly public roads with the stands and buildings still there. Friends of the old circuit keep the memory alive and a replica indoor track was running a 12 hour Scalextric race, exciting stuff; the enthusiasm was infectious. It's a bit like the barge world really, just different with cars! A run down that home straight in Roger's E-Type was the biggest thrill and we rounded off the day with a barbeque on board Esme right in the centre of Reims city. A day to remember.
The old Circuit de Gueux, Reims
Christine, Ed, Penny and Roger with their beautiful Jaguars
Of course while in Reims we enjoyed a little retail therapy, drank some champagne and saw the amazing Son et Lumiere at the cathedral. Diana found a hairdresser name Maxime, who gets an award for not cutting it all off!
Reims cathedral Son et LumiereWaterfront at Reims
South of Reims we cruised through lovely countryside, surrounded by champagne vineyards and pretty villages. Nice to see country life again after the excitement of the city. The grain harvest getting underway, much activity across the distant fields till late. Barbecue food and late evenings out on deck under the stars. One evening we were surrounded by a swarm of June bugs which don't bite but look like flying beetles, harmless and really quite beautiful. That same night we saw the pompiers putting out a stubblefield fire.
Stubblefield fire near Sillery
So far it's been a perfect summer but we are leaving early, cruising in the cool of morning, seeking shade and being lazy during the hottest part of the day. There's talk of aircon in the sleeping cabins for next year. Chris has a plan....winter project?